Visiting Bulguksa Temple, Korea
An Ancient Vestige of Silla Architecture and Buddhism Near Gyeongju
Jun 12, 2008
Having barely begun to ascend the heights of Mount Tohamsan, beyond the city of Gyeongju, an ancient reminder of Silla Buddhism becomes visible through the trees. Bulguksa, meaning "Temple of the Buddha Land", is set into the wilderness though it is close enough to civilization to be just off a main road, located at 15-1 Jinhyeon-dong. After passing through the welcoming entrance gates time halts and the modern day falls away.
Ancient Beginnings
Bulguksa is believed to have been begun as a much smaller temple site by King Pob Hung as a place for his queen to pray in the year 535. Later during the year 751 Prime Minister Kim Daesong had begun the much more elaborate temple that is known today. By its completion during the year 774, after the temple's modest beginnings, Bulguksa had become the centre for Silla Buddhism.
Suffering almost complete destruction during the Japanese invasion of 1592 the only parts of the temple to survive were the foundations and two stone pagodas. The Seokgamoni Pagoda or Seokgatap is traditional in style with three stories of simple design. Across the pavilion the second pagoda called Dabotap is far more grandiose in architecture and stature. Both have been designated as National Treasures.
Partial reconstruction of Bulguksa commenced during the Japanese occupation of 1910 through 1945. It was not until the 1960s, under the government of Park Chunghee, that the original temple was researched and construction began again to rebuild Bulguksa to its former glory. In 1995 the temple was designated as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.
Exploring the Architecture
Following the winding path from the main gates through trees and past an emerald pond there is much to explore. Several halls and two courtyards await beyond the double staircases of Cheongungyo or "Blue Cloud Bridge" and Yeonhwagyo or "White Cloud Bridge".
The "Hall of Great Enlightenment", Daeungjeon, is the main hall just past the two stone pagodas. Behind this colourfully adorned traditional building stands the "Hall of No Words", Museoljeon representing the belief that Buddhist teachings transcend words. The Geuknakjeon or "Hall of Supreme Bliss" is near the main compound and houses the Amitabha, a bronze gilt Buddha statue that is considered National Treasure #27. Nestled just below this hall is the Birojeon, "Vairocana Buddha Hall", containing National Treasure #26, the gilded statue of Vairocana. Resting at the highest region of the temple site is the Gwaneumjeon, enclosed within is the image of Avalokitesvara who is the Bodhisattva of Perfect Compassion.
Bulguksa and Beyond
The splendor of Bulguksa is not to be missed while touring through Gyeongju and the surrounding areas. It is easily reached as there are tours to the site as well as buses that stop nearby and there is ample parking for those who have rented a car. After spending a few hours here there are restaurants, shops and gas stations to stop by on the same road before continuing up the mountain.
After traveling back in time during a visit to this long standing Silla Buddhist temple tourists will have barely delved into the history lying in wait farther up Mt. Tohamsan. As the roads wind higher into the clouds ancient treasures abound beyond the trees. An enriching exploration of Korea's ancestry has just begun.
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